Scalextric sets manufactured between 1960 and 1990 can sometimes be unreliable, especially if they have been stored for a long time. Even when not in use, various issues can arise due to storage conditions. Exposure to moisture and high humidity can lead to corrosion and mould growth, while dust accumulation and material deterioration—such as plastic shrinkage over time—can also affect performance.
This guide outlines six straightforward steps to help restore an old Scalextric set and get it running smoothly again for maximum enjoyment. These steps include:
- Ensuring all parts of the set are present
- Checking for any damaged components
- Reviving the track
- Inspecting the power supply and controllers
- Restoring the cars
- Upgrading the cars
Part 1 – Ensuring Your Set is Complete
For a Scalextric set or layout to function properly, all necessary components must be present. In this section, we’ll assess the completeness of your old set and identify any missing parts that need to be sourced to get it up and running again.
If you have an original boxed set, you can refer to the Scalextric catalogue or the instruction manual for a list of its contents. However, if your set includes additional accessories, cars, and other extras, you’ll need to check against the general list below:
- Power supply
- Hand controllers – at least two
- Track pieces – a good selection of straights and corners
- Barriers
- Track supports – for bridges and banked corners
- Cars – at least two
If any of these components are missing, you’ll need to find suitable replacements. It’s a good idea to make a list at this stage, as other necessary parts may become apparent later. Keep in mind that just because a part is present doesn’t necessarily mean it’s functional.
When checking the track, ensure that essential paired pieces are available in the right quantities. For instance, if your set includes a long chicane, you’ll need both an “in” and an “out” piece. Similarly, if you have a crossover track and plan to race two cars, you must have two of these pieces. Keep these matched track sections together for now.
Take a moment to inspect each item for visible damage or missing components, such as hand controllers without attached wires. Any unusable parts should be set aside and added to your list of replacements.
By the end of this step, you should have two separate piles: one for usable parts and another for damaged or missing components. You’ll also have a list of items that need to be replaced. You can begin sourcing these parts right away or wait until after Part 2, where we’ll thoroughly inspect each component for damage and compile a final list of necessary replacements.
Part 2 – Checking for Damaged Components
In this second part of our guide on reviving an old Scalextric set, we’ll take a closer look at the condition of your remaining pieces. In Part 1, you may have already set aside any obviously damaged components. Now, it’s time to examine what’s left in more detail to identify any other parts that may need repair or replacement.
Power Supply and Controllers
Let’s start with the power supply and controllers. First, inspect the power supply for any visible issues, such as a missing or incorrect mains plug, exposed wiring, or damaged insulation. If anything seems unsafe on the mains side, consult a qualified electrician. On the low-voltage side (the transformer), make sure the connection studs and thumbscrews are intact and undamaged.
To test if the power supply is working properly, connect a 21W car bulb to its output—the bulb should light up brightly and steadily.
Next, examine the hand controllers. Check the casing for any cracks or damage, and ensure the operating lever moves smoothly through its full range and returns to the off position. Inspect the wires for any insulation damage and confirm that the connection plugs and eyelets are intact. To test the controllers, connect them to a functioning power supply and attach a 5W car bulb to the output. The bulb should remain off when the controller is at zero and gradually brighten as you increase the throttle.
Track Inspection
Once the power supply and controllers are confirmed to be working, move on to the track pieces.
- Check that all plastic connection lugs are intact.
- Look for signs of rust or corrosion on the steel track rails. Light rust can be removed with a track polishing pad, but if the corrosion is deep, replacing the track piece may be necessary.
- Ensure that the conductor rails wrap around the plastic end lugs properly to maintain electrical connectivity between track sections.
- Check that the track lies flat—older pieces can sometimes bow in the middle, causing an uneven surface.
- Special track sections, such as crossovers, have small wires underneath that connect the rails. Make sure these are still in place and making good contact.
Car Inspection
Now, let’s inspect your Scalextric cars for any missing or damaged parts. Common issues to look out for include:
- Hardened or cracked tyres
- Loose drive wheel hubs
- Missing external body parts
- Missing or worn-out guide blade and pickup braids
- Excessively worn pickup braids
- Split motor pinion gears (common in cars from the late 1970s to the late 1990s)
- Damaged wiring
- Stiff or binding drive gears
To check if the car’s drivetrain is functioning, turn the driven wheels by hand. They should rotate freely, moving the axle and motor armature without resistance. If you notice any stiffness or binding, further inspection is needed.
Testing the Car
The easiest way to test if a car is working is to connect the power supply, a hand controller, and a track piece. Place the car on the track and lift the driven wheels slightly off the surface. Slowly apply power using the hand controller.
- At low power, the motor should hum, and the wheels should turn slowly. Some older cars may hum without the wheels turning—this isn’t necessarily a problem.
- At about one-third throttle, the motor should speed up and the wheels should rotate faster. If they don’t move at all, stop the test—there may be an issue that requires further investigation.
- If you hear a repetitive clicking sound, there might be a problem with the drive gears, so stop the test immediately and check for damage.
To test the car’s electrical connections, keep the throttle at one-third and gently pivot the car left and right using the guide blade. If the motor hesitates, there may be an issue with the wiring or connections that needs attention.
By following these steps, you’ll get a clear idea of which parts of your Scalextric set need repairing or replacing. In the next section, we’ll look at how to clean, fix, and restore any faulty components to get your set running like new again!
Part 3: Bringing Your Track Back to Life
Now that you’ve identified all the damaged parts of your old Scalextric set, it’s time to start restoring it to full working order. In this section, we’ll focus on the track and get it back in top shape. Older Scalextric tracks tend to have a few common issues, including:
- Metal rails that have become dull and rough
- Warping or bowing along the track length
- A narrowing of the slot between the rails
- A buildup of dust and dirt on the track surface
Cleaning the Track Surface
Just like a real racetrack, a clean surface is essential for maintaining grip and ensuring your cars perform at their best. If your track has been stored properly, a quick wipe with a damp cloth might be all it needs. However, if it’s covered in dust and grime, it may require a more thorough cleaning. Using an old nail brush with warm, soapy water (a bit of washing-up liquid helps remove grease and oil), scrub the surface well. Once clean, dry the track immediately to prevent rust from forming on the metal rails.
Fixing Warped or Bowed Track Sections
Next, check for any bowing or warping along the length of the track. If you notice uneven surfaces, gently bend the track back into shape to restore a flat, level surface. While doing this, you might see that the track rails have buckled into the slot, partially blocking it. Don’t worry—this is normal and can be fixed in the next step. The key here is to make sure the track lies as flat and even as possible.
Widening a Narrowed Slot
Over time, some track sections may develop a narrowing of the slot, especially near the ends where track pieces connect. This usually happens when the metal rails haven’t been crimped securely to the plastic base. To fix this, simply tighten the crimping. If the narrowing occurs at the very end of a track piece where it connects to another section, you can gently push it back into shape with a flat-blade screwdriver. The same technique applies if the slot has become misaligned along its length—carefully push it back into place to ensure a smooth path for your cars.
Polishing the Metal Rails
Finally, the metal rails need to be polished to restore their original shine. Clean, smooth rails ensure better electrical conductivity, which translates to improved speed and acceleration for your cars. It also reduces rolling resistance and minimizes wear on the pick-up braids. A track polishing pad works wonders for this, easily buffing the rails back to a bright, shiny finish. While light corrosion can be removed, deep pitting may be harder to fix.
Once you’ve completed these steps, your track should be in prime condition, with a clean surface and smooth, polished rails. Now, it’s time for the fun part—designing your track layout and getting back to racing!
Part 4: Checking the Power Supply and Controllers
In this section of our guide to bringing your old Scalextric set back to life, we’ll focus on the power supply and controllers. If you followed Part 2, you may have already discarded any obviously damaged components. Now, we’ll take a closer look at the remaining parts to check for any additional faults or issues.
Inspecting the Power Supply
Start by examining the power supply for visible damage. Look out for missing or incorrect mains plugs, exposed wiring, or any frayed insulation. If you have any concerns about the mains side of the power supply, it’s best to consult a qualified electrician.
Next, check the low-voltage side (transformer) to ensure that the connection studs and thumbscrews are intact and in good condition. If everything looks fine, you can test the power supply by connecting a 21W car bulb to its output. The bulb should light up consistently and brightly.
While testing, listen for a low humming sound from the power supply—this is normal. However, if the humming is unusually loud, the transformer inside may be faulty. In cases of excessive noise, replacing the entire power supply might be necessary. If a repair is needed, only a qualified electrician should handle it.
Older power supplies may have a manual reset button that shuts off the output in case of a short circuit or excessive current draw. You can test this feature by briefly connecting the output terminals together. If working correctly, the protection device should disable the output, and pressing the reset button should restore power. Newer power supplies have a similar feature that resets automatically after a few seconds.
If your power supply is beyond repair, replacement options are readily available.
Checking the Hand Controllers
Now, let’s examine the hand controllers. Start by inspecting the casing for any visible damage and make sure the trigger moves smoothly through its full range before springing back to the “off” position. Try pressing it down slowly to full power and releasing it gradually to see if it returns properly.
Next, check the wiring for any frayed insulation and ensure that the connection plugs and eyelets are intact. To test the controllers, connect them to a working power supply and use a 5W car bulb as an output indicator. The bulb should remain off when the controller is in the “off” position. As you slowly squeeze the trigger, the bulb should gradually brighten, reaching full brightness at maximum throttle.
If any of your controllers are faulty, replacement options are available.
Part 5: Bringing Your Scalextric Cars Back to Life
In this part of our guide on reviving your old Scalextric set, we’ll focus on restoring your cars. If you followed Part 2, you should have already checked for any missing or damaged components. Here are some common issues to look out for:
- Tyres that have hardened or cracked
- Loose drive wheel hubs
- Missing body parts
- Missing guide blade or pick-up braids
- Missing motor
- Excessively worn pick-up braids
- Split motor pinion gear (common in models from the late 1970s to the late 1990s)
- Faulty wiring
- Jammed drive gears
If you haven’t already done this inspection, go back to Part 2 before moving on to the next steps.
Step 1: Disassembling the Car
Carefully take your car apart, separating the major components. Some Scalextric models use screws, others have sliding clips, and some require the chassis to be unclipped from the body. Be cautious—some models can be tricky to open. If you’re unsure, feel free to reach out for advice.
Step 2: Cleaning the Parts
Wash all plastic components—including the body, window moulding, chassis, driver plate, and wheels—in warm soapy water. Use a nail brush or similar tool to remove dirt and dust. Be aware that this may also remove any decals. Older plastic parts may have become brittle, so handle them with care. If your car has developed a white, powdery mould (common in 1960s models), repeat the cleaning process until it’s gone.
Once cleaned and dried, inspect all plastic parts for damage. Discard any that are beyond repair and source replacements if necessary.
Step 3: Checking and Servicing the Motor
Apply a small drop of lubricating oil to the motor bearings and test the motor at full speed for a short time. This helps check the bearings, armature windings, and motor brushes. If it doesn’t perform well, it’s best to replace it, as it won’t be reliable during races. Some open-frame RX and Formula Junior motors can be repaired—check out our guide on servicing RX motors for more details.
Step 4: Inspecting and Replacing Wiring
Examine the motor wiring and fix any damaged sections. If the wiring looks worn or questionable, replacing it is a good idea. Faulty wiring can be difficult to spot but can easily ruin a car’s performance.
Step 5: Checking the Pinion Gear
If your car was made between the late 1970s and late 1990s, check the white plastic motor pinion gear—it may have cracked or loosened on the motor shaft. If you’re unsure about its condition, replacing it is the safest option.
Step 6: Checking the Electronics
If your car has lights, test them. Some models use polarity-sensitive LEDs, so make sure replacements are installed correctly. Swap out any broken or burnt-out bulbs.
Step 7: Reassembling the Axles and Wheels
Reinstall the bearings, spacers, and wheels onto the axles. If the wheels are loose, a small drop of super glue should keep them secure. Fit the axles back onto the chassis, ensuring they are firmly in place and spin freely.
Important Note: When fitting the rear axle, make sure the large flat disc of the contrate gear is positioned to the right of centre when looking at the car from underneath. If it’s installed incorrectly, the car will run in reverse.
Step 8: Reinstalling the Motor and Electrical Components
Attach the motor and any other electrical parts to the chassis and body. Use new pick-up braids and fresh pick-up pins (if your car uses them). Old or crimped pick-up pins can cause electrical issues. If you’re unsure which size pick-up pins you need (1.75mm or 1.95mm), feel free to ask us.
Step 9: Replacing the Tyres and Final Checks
Fit new rear tyres unless your existing ones are in excellent condition with good grip. The front tyres can be reused if they are still in good shape. Apply a drop of oil to all bearings and gears to improve performance and extend their lifespan. Check that the gears move smoothly—if there’s any resistance, let us know, and we’ll help troubleshoot.
Now, test the car on the track. If it runs in the wrong direction, simply swap the wires at the guide or motor to correct it.
Step 10: Final Assembly
Reattach all parts, including the body, windows, and driver plate. Run through the checks from Part 2 again to confirm that everything is working properly. Take the car for a test run to ensure good tyre grip. Finally, fit any extra decorative pieces, such as bumpers, wing mirrors, spoilers, and decals.
With your cars, track, power supply, and controllers in top shape, you’re ready to hit the track and enjoy some racing!
Part 6: Upgrading Your Scalextric Cars
Welcome to the final part of our guide on reviving your old Scalextric set! In this section, we’ll explore how to upgrade your classic Scalextric cars. By now, if you’ve followed Part 5, your cars should be running as well as they did when they were brand new. However, compared to the latest Scalextric models, they may still struggle with handling and performance.
Types of Upgrades
Upgrades generally fall into two categories: reversible and non-reversible. It’s always best to start with reversible modifications, as they allow you to restore your car to its original condition if needed. Here are some simple upgrades that can make a noticeable difference:
Reversible Upgrades
✅ High-Performance Tyres
Much like real cars, Scalextric cars rely on their tyres—especially the rear ones—for traction, braking, and cornering. Upgrading to high-performance tyres, such as the Max Grip series, can significantly improve grip and handling.
✅ More Powerful Motor
If your car uses an RX open-frame motor, you can upgrade to a Johnson motor using an adapter kit. If it already has a Johnson motor, consider upgrading to a Mabuchi motor. For cars already fitted with a Mabuchi motor, upgrading to a newer, more powerful version is an option. Not sure which motor your car has? Check out our free motor library for identification.
✅ Adding Weight
Adding weight to your car can help with stability, especially in corners. Placing weight over the rear wheels can reduce wheel spin by increasing traction between the tyres and the track. A simple way to do this is by using Blu Tack and small steel ball bearings to distribute the weight where it’s needed.
✅ Wider Axles
Older Scalextric cars from the 1970s and 1980s tend to tip over in corners due to their floating front axles. Swapping them out for wider axles can improve stability and allow the car to handle corners at higher speeds.
These upgrades are easy to apply and remove, making them great starting points for improving performance without making permanent changes.
Non-Reversible Upgrades
If you’re looking to push your car’s performance further, there are some modifications that can deliver bigger results. However, these upgrades are permanent and could affect the car’s value, so proceed with caution.
❌ Adding a Magnatraction Magnet
Installing a magnet can provide an instant boost in grip, especially if placed just in front of the rear axle. However, magnets also create rolling resistance, which can slow the car down if overdone. They work best with Mabuchi motors for optimal performance.
❌ Lowering the Guide Height
Lowering the guide blade helps bring down the car’s center of gravity, making it more stable in corners. However, this isn’t possible on all Scalextric models.
❌ Fixing the Front Axle Height
Many older Scalextric cars have a floating front axle, designed to handle banked corners and track imperfections. If you mainly race on a flat track, fixing the axle in place can improve cornering stability. Just make sure the front wheels still touch the track while keeping weight on the guide blade.
Final Thoughts
These are just a few of the most effective upgrades to enhance your classic Scalextric car’s performance with minimal effort. If you’re looking for more advanced tuning ideas, check out our test results from upgrading a classic Scalextric C52 Ford Escort RS1600.
And with that, we wrap up our series on bringing your old Scalextric set back to life! We hope you’ve found these articles helpful and enjoyable. Got any feedback or experiences to share? Let us know—we’d love to hear from you!
