Tips for Maintaining and Troubleshooting Slot Car Tracks
“No.”
“Dad, can we get your old slot cars out?”
“No.”
“Dad, can we get your old slot cars out?”
“No.”
…This same conversation played out every day for about a month until I finally gave in and retrieved my old slot car sets from the basement. Soon after, my kids had the track set up on the floor, fully assembled and ready to race.
The issue was, the slot cars wouldn’t move—pulling the triggers produced no sputter, sound, or spark.
Instead of enjoying some thrilling scale racing, I found myself in the basement, clutching some loose track, and trying to figure out why the slot cars wouldn’t work.
Steps to Take When Your Slot Cars Aren’t Running
Here’s a quick diagnostic procedure to help you get your slot cars running again.
1. Check the Power Supply
Examining the output of this specific AC adapter, it should deliver approximately 20 volts DC at five amps.
First, I tested the AC adapter directly at the terminal connector. It measured approximately 19.5 Vdc, which was close enough to the specified value
2. Check the Slot Car(s)
A detailed inspection confirmed this:
On the left is the car with less wear, still equipped with its original contact shoes. The car on the right has new replacement strips, and you’ll see the reason for this in the next picture.
Removed from the car and placed next to new ones, it’s clear that the contact shoes on the right are significantly worn. The one near the center even has a hole worn completely through the copper.
In many cases, you can also find complete replacement slot cars.
Not all slot cars use copper strips for pickups. Some larger cars use metal braids to make contact with the track conductors. While these braids are often replaceable, simply cleaning and repositioning them can often restore the car’s performance. Additionally, try slightly fraying and fanning the tip of the braid where it contacts the track for improved contact with the metal conductors
3. Inspect the Slot Car Track Connections
…but it only made it halfway around the track before slowing to a stop.
I repositioned the car at the starting point and tried again, with the same outcome.
This indicated that while the car was now functioning properly, the track was likely losing continuity between its sections.
The metal conductors in the track are simply press-fit between sections, so ensuring a strong connection and clean contact points is essential.
*Note: Electrical contact cleaner can be quite harsh, similar to brake or carburetor cleaner. While it effectively cleans electrical connectors, it can also dissolve paint, etch plastics, permanently stain finishes, and cause other damage. Use it sparingly, quickly wipe up any excess, and be extremely careful to avoid damaging surrounding areas. For delicate applications, such as electric guitar pots or amp tube pins, consider using Caig DeoxIT, which, though pricey, is both effective and safe.
After reassembling the track, both cars were able to complete laps around the course. However, there still seemed to be some “dead” spots where the cars lost electrical contact. Upon closer inspection, I noticed noticeable surface oxidation on some of the metal conductor strips.
To address this, I used a foam-backed sanding block, typically used for drywall, and lightly sanded the entire track to remove the thin layer of surface corrosion. It’s important to use very light pressure to avoid wearing down the metal conductors, which could render the track inoperable.
The foam sanding block reduced pressure on the track, helping me avoid damaging the delicate metal strips. Be sure to use a gentle touch during this process!
Then, I placed both cars on the track and fully squeezed the triggers simultaneously…
…causing both cars to crash into my drywall. Facepalm.
Undeterred, I quickly adjusted my throttle grip, and within a minute, both cars were racing smoothly again.
Routine Maintenance for Slot Cars
See the details in these pictures:
Keep in mind that a strong contact cleaner can damage plastics, paint, rubber, and other soft materials. Use it sparingly, and it’s usually best to apply it with a small Q-tip for more precise application.
Besides the magnets in their electric motors, many slot cars use additional magnets to keep them firmly attached to the track. This causes them to pick up small magnetic particles, along with carpet lint, dust, and pet hair as they race. Regular cleaning with a mild degreaser and routine wipe-downs are essential.
Be sure to periodically clean the terminal ports on the track, as well as the female connectors on the controllers and power supply. Corrosion and debris can accumulate, causing electrical resistance that can affect the cars’ performance.
Foam-backed drywall sanding blocks, standard dishwashing sponges, and reliable Scotch-Brite scuffing pads are all effective for removing corrosion from track conductors. Just be careful not to apply too much pressure, as it can wear down the metal track leads and potentially damage the track.
Although I was fortunate in this case because the issue was due to easily fixed electrical contact problems, other common issues include bent axles, stripped gears, and deteriorating tires. The positive side is that replacement slot car parts are often readily available online and in the secondhand market.